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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee familiar high-end establishments. However, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has made the family completely shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” says the family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble place achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary achievement.